Care Sheets
Housing
Tarantulas can be kept in various types of containers or enclosures, from simple deli style cups to glass aquariums. It all depends on what you want to use. There are some simple things to keep mind when deciding what to use. First and most important is to make sure that the lid is tight fitting. Second make sure that the ventilation holes are small enough to keep your spider from escaping. The amount of ventilation holes will depend on the humidity requirements of the species you wish to care for.
Substrate
Probably the best and most affordable substrates to use, is simple potting soil. It holds moisture very well and is ideal for burrowing species. I have also found a combination of vermiculite and peat moss works extremely well. The most important thing you need to remember is that whatever you decide to use it CANNOT contain any pesticide or chemicals. If you are unsure if it does, do not use it. Instead use a substrate that is commercially available from your local pet store, such as coconut fiber based products.
Hiding Places & Decorations
By nature, tarantulas like to hide. I find that pvc piping, cork bark (this will not mold like most other wood), and silk plants all work well. It all depends on how aesthetic you want it to look.
Drinking Water
Water should be available at all times. It can be supplied by using a very shallow water dish. You can use a pet store bought plastic lids from containers such as pill vials. Another method to supply water is through misting the enclosure with a spray bottle (this works especially well for arboreal species). Be careful not over saturate the substrate as this will encourage the growth of mold. Also be aware of the humidity levels in the enclosure as to the humidity needs for that species of tarantula.
Feeding
Food consists of crickets, mealworms, cockroaches, etc. Food should be appropriately sized for the size of the tarantula you are feeding, especially when comes to feeding spiderlings. Never feed wild caught insects. Tarantulas should be fed 1-2 times per week. After 24 hours remove any uneaten prey items as these will stress a tarantula out. It is also important to remove any uneaten remains of prey items to help keep a clean environment.
Heating & Humidity
As a general rule try and keep your tarantulas enclosure between 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit. Please keep in mind that some species are more sensitive to temperature requirements than others. Heat supplements such heat lamps and under tank heat pads can be used. Humidity must also be monitored. Humidity requirements depend on the species you are keeping. Proper humidity levels can be achieved simply by misting the enclosure as little as every couple of days.
Molting
As tarantulas grow, they must molt (shed) their skin. Adults generally molt once a year and younger will molt more often. Tarantulas will stop eating about a week before they molt. It is important that all live prey items be removed during this stressful time. They will usually molt while lying on their back. DO NOT turn them over. Leave them alone. After they molt they will usually start eating about a week or so later when their new skin has hardened.
Handling
Although there are some species that are said to be more docile than others, we discourage the handling of all tarantulas, as these are wild animals that can bite. Tarantulas can also be injured or even killed from a fall.
NOTE: All tarantulas possess venom.
Scorpions are best kept in glass aquariums or plastic critter cages with secure lids. They do not climb very well so height is not as important as length and width. The substrate should try and mimic the natural environment of the species you are keeping. For example, potting soil or peat moss/vermiculite mix for tropical and subtropical species. Sand (such as the packaged reptile sand sold at pet stores) for the desert species. Water should be available at all times offered in a shallow dish. Food should consist of primarily crickets, although mealworms are sometimes offered as well. Shelter or hide sots should also be available to help maintain a stress free scorpion.
NOTE: All Scorpions are venomous, although some are more dangerous than others. We STRONGLY advise against handling any scorpions.
Millipedes do best in aquariums with large surface area and good ventilation. They should be kept on either peat moss/vermiculite mixture or clean potting soil. The substrate should be at least 3-5 inches deep. They should be given plenty of places to hide. Temperature should be kept between 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit. They love to eat ripened fruits and vegetables and sometimes certain decaying leaves. Do to their love for decaying fruits and vegetables, cages should be cleaned often. Be certain to know what specific needs the species of millipede you intend to own needs.
NOTE: Millipedes can exude defensive fluid that can be harmful. We strongly advise against handling millipedes.
In my opinion centipedes are for the advanced hobbyists only. They are extremely fast and can inflict severely painful bites. Enclosures must be securely closed as to prevent escape as these will find a way out. Overall care is fairly straight forward. Substrate should consist of peat moss/vermiculite mixture or potting. Fresh water should always be available. Food offered should primarily be crickets. Temperature should be maintained between 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit.
NOTE: All Centipedes are venomous. They can inflict a severely painful bite. We strongly advise against handling any centipede anytime!!
